Friday, August 5, 2016

Small scale breeding and catching gammarus pulex - scuds

Freshwater shrimps (scuds) are mostly sold dead and dried as food for fish such as koi carp and are supposedly edible for humans too. They're very common in small streams and can be very abundant if there are no fish in the stream. Although it might be best to avoid lake and sea grown Gammarus because they potentially feed on cyanobacterial algae blooms when in frozen lakes and certain algal blooms can produce the bioaccumulating toxins 'microcystins', fishless lakes can produce LOTS of these shrimp; see this Russian video of 'fishing' for these scuds in a presumably fishless frozen lake or bog: 



Very similar amphipod species are also found in the sea and on the beach feeding off organic matter, here's a video of amphipods on the beach:



I imagine these marine scuds are less likely to accumulate the microcystins as there diet might be more plant matter and bacteria growing on bigger things and detritus, rather than on algal blooms. It might be worth investigating before eating these things though


according to someone's post on caudata.org:

'Here in Minnesota we call freshwater shrimp, Scuds. gammarus. Many different strains. Minnesota is home to several, one in particular, Gammarus lacustris. The largest of the strains. Winter is the best time to harvest them. They are harvested underneath the ice. They are in concentrated numbers under the ice in the spring, due to the abundance of algae growth on the bottom of the ice. Little is written on this strain, in such ways as, intensive culturing. They are thought to be annual breeders and cannibalistic. I also tried to breed them in a more controlled environment, with little success. This was mainly do to time restraints, devoted to my beloved waterchanges. I do raise the Hyalella Azteca with ample success, none do to my expertise This particular strain is very easy to raise. Actually there is nothing to it. Aquarium, green water (phytoplankton), and hang on. These are very prolific and are not seasonal in propagation rulings. I do not know if you can get your hands on these in your country. I would first try to culture the ones you have. If there is no ease in multiplying them, go on to something else. Too much out there to have at our disposal, which in turn allows more time for the beloved water changes of the host that you chose for husbandry.'

Breeding scuds

Lessons so far:
Feeding them slightly too much will kill them. They don't like 'dirty' water; the aquarium they're in had been up and running for a year with a small filter, aquatic moss, pond snails and aquarium lights. I guess that is a requirement to have a tank up and running so that good bacteria populations thrive and tank is in equalibrium (although 2 weeks rather than a year should do it). Feeding them slightly too much killed them. If you keep a regular watch on the tank I think it's possible to predict whether you have overfed the tank or just generally that the water quality has degraded: When the water quality is degraded due to overfeeding, before they start dying off, they all seem to come to the surface as if trying to escape the water. Another sign is that lots of detritus worms might start poking their bodies out of the mulm/aquatic soil substrate or you will see small detritus worms free-swimming in the water possibly due to nitrate or nitrite build up in the substrate. At this point a water change helps and they immediately go back to normal behaviour

They don't really 'like' fine sand; some sites say they enjoy burrowing in the sand, with the fine sand I used I saw none of them burrowing. I think the sand just provided anaerobic conditions for the debris that built up in there and so was bad for the water quality as the wrong kind of bacteria may flourish in those conditions. When the scuds started to die (from over-feeding and possibly debris in the sand) I removed the sand with a siphon and returned the water and scuds to the tank

They like living inside the filter: I have a small, weak impeller filter, after a while I noticed a lot had disappeared and when I went to clean the filter sponge they were all inside the filter I left the filter in there since they can easily make their way out and there's plenty of bacterial food, water movement and oxygen in there. On subsequent checks of the filter there have been fewer scuds in there for whatever reason

They like filter sponge. I often see the babies swimming in and out of a filter sponge I added to the tank. The babies also seem to like the mass of free-floating java moss in there


They like mud. I left some mud in the tank from the ditch I got the scuds from and later on I found lots of babies crawling about in there, I suspect there's lots of food in there that's the right size for the babies whilst other food might be too big. In the wild I've seen the adults love burying themselves/hiding in the fine, light mud/mulm. If it's possible to have mud in the tank without overloading the tank with nutrients or making the water permanently cloudy this might be a good option. Update: I've grown my own mulm substrate (thanks to aquatic snail faeces) for a few months and the water quality I think has been fine, although overfeeding has caused a crash a couple of times I'm not putting this down to the substrate. There was no cloudiness until recently and now, even with big water changes it seems hard to reduce it. A better filter system might solve this. Activated carbon would strip the water of nutrients the scuds need but perhaps something like purigen would work. Either way it's probably not essential to have crystal clear water


In lab conditions... 'We found an optimum temperature for growth of approximately 17°C'
this is from this study:

'From population-level effects to individual response: modelling temperature dependence in Gammarus pulex'
http://jeb.biologists.org/content/214/21/3678

Food they eat:

Cucumber - weighted down with a piece of blue-tac and a toothpick they all congregate on the underside of the cucumber slice
Fish flakes - once the flakes sink to the bottom of the tank
Catfish food (algae wafers) - crumbled up to make them a more manageable size
red pepper (non spicy)
cornmeal (I've not tried cornflour/starch yet)
Possibly spirulina powder although hard to see if they're eating it since it's so smallLentils (I can't remember which ones exactly they eat I think I tried red, green and split peas) they swim around holding the lentil it's amusing to me

A study on how environmental estrogen increases the production rate of Gammarus populations: http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/11833814

https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/26297924

https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/25594120

An article describing how fish populations die out with slight increases in environmental oestrogen in the water: http://news.nationalgeographic.com/news/2007/05/070521-sex-fish.html Perhaps if the shrimp are being cultured as livefood then oestrogen should be used (or not used) accordingly in the Gammarus livefood tank. Higher estrogen might not be good for breeder fish but otherwise it probably doesn't matter. It might be possible to only harvest the bigger (male) scuds to reduce oestrogen in the diet if the culture is supplemented with oestrogen and so a schedule of using oestrogen in the water then having a period without it to re-stabilise the population and oestrogen available to whatever is consuming the shrimp.


Foods that naturally increase the body's estrogen production:

The University of Minnesota notes that foods that help boost estrogen naturally include apples, alfalfabarley, baker's yeast, beets, cherries, chickpeas, carrots,celery, cucumbers, dates, fennel, oats, olives and olive oil, papaya, peas, plums, pomegranates, potatoes, beans, rhubarbrice, tomatoes, wheat and yams

Gammarus shrimp produce more offspring during the winter I think so, although better growth would happen at 17C, better population increase might happen at lower temperatures. Moving populations

Friday, July 25, 2014

Eating Garden Snails (Cornu aspersum previously Helix aspersa)

I've set up a box for snails and it's currently got about 100 inhabitants. Among the plant pots there's also a tray of soil (with the hope they will lay eggs here), a plate of food, and a piece of cuttlefish bone for the calcium for their shells. I want to build a table of foods they eat and don't eat, I'll use my own experience and also information from other web pages... I took some information from this link

They Ate:

Cucumber
Tomato
Carrots
Cabbage Turnip Leaves
Carrot Leaves
Aubergine peel
Oatmeal
Egg Shells (might need to be sterilised)
Broccoli stalk (boiled) - they ate this fast
Broccoli stalk (raw); they ate this as fast as they ate the boiled one
Hogweed leaves (Heracleum sphondylium) - they ate these fast
Nettle leaves, chopped up and kept in the fridge until they turned a dark grey/brown - ate these fast
Clover leaves (I don't think they ate the stems)
Potato slices (boiled)
Lettuce leaves (they eat the leafy part at least)
Melon rind, stripped to a thin sliver
Sweet Cicely leaves (Myrrhis odorata), they ate these very quickly
Greater Plantain leaves (Plantago major)
Runner beans (boiled)
Chicken piece (cooked/curried), eaten on the second night of being in the enclosure
Blackberries, eaten on the second night of being in the enclosure

They Didn't Eat:

Gooseberries
Tomato leaves
Grass stalks and blades
clover stalks and leaf stem
Shiitake mushroom (dried and re-hydrated, past their expiry date)

From the wild/hedgerow/garden:

Hogweed leaves (Heracleum sphondylium) - they ate these fast
Nettle leaves, chopped up and kept in the fridge until they turned a dark grey/brown - ate these fast
Clover leaves (I don't think they ate the stems)
Sweet Cicely leaves (Myrrhis odorata), they ate these very quickly
Greater Plantain leaves (Plantago major)
Blackberries, eaten on the second night of being in the enclosure

From the shop:

Cucumber
Tomato
Carrots
Aubergine peel
Oatmeal
Egg Shells (might need to be sterilised)
Broccoli stalk (boiled) - they ate this fast
Broccoli stalk (raw); they ate this as fast as they ate the boiled one
Potato slices (boiled)
Lettuce leaves (they eat the leafy part at least)
Melon rind, stripped to a sliver
Runner beans (boiled)
Chicken piece (cooked/curried), eaten on the second night of being in the enclosure
Blackberries, eaten on the second night of being in the enclosure
 
From the vegetable garden:

Cucumber
Tomato
Carrots
Cabbage Turnip Leaves
Carrot Leaves
Potato slices (boiled)
Lettuce leaves (they eat the leafy part at least)

Friday, March 1, 2013

Dying Socks with Cortinarius sanguinius (Blood-red Cortinarius)






Mostly dried out at work on a hot pipe but I finished the drying in a pan with a saucer of silica gel beads and lid on top.

I ground them up with a pestle and mortar then essentially followed this procedure: http://www.wildcolours.co.uk/html/starting_to_dye.html 


The one on the left is dyed using iron sulphate as a mordant whilst the one on the right I used sodium chloride (table salt) as the mordant. I was hoping for a brighter red like this woman has managed: http://shroomworks.wordpress.com/2008/12/20/80/ . She has recommended using wool or silk and to use 'Alum' as the mordant. I also didn't scour the socks properly before dying which I guess might have contributed to faded colour.


After a couple of hand washes they both faded more

Saturday, February 16, 2013

Eating Scarlet Elfcup (Sarcoscypha sp.)

These were very good mushrooms to eat:

I don't know similar species but I GUESS here in the UK they are a safe choice just from the lack of warnings I've come across on the internet. I only ate a few of them first time just to be on the safe(r) side. There is at least one other species that looks like the ones I found and so I'm unsure of the exact species but I'll say they are Sarcoscypha coccinea. Apparently you need a microscope to differentiate between the different Scarlet Elfcup species.







The orange ones are either a colour morph of Sarcoscypha coccinea or they could be another species. According to experts on wildaboutbritain.co.uk to tell the difference you need a microscope



I washed them in warm water to get rid of moss and dirt. I let the water drip off them for a couple of minutes to store them in the fridge in a covered Pyrex dish

 First off I fried some up quickly for about a minute and had them in a cheese and salad sandwich. My sister commented they taste just like regular shop bought mushrooms (button mushrooms or whatever). I think I agree. Two days later I had the ones pictured as part of a fried breakfast but fried for maybe 2-3minutes. Then I did this again on the 15th Feb



Sunday, February 3, 2013

Smoking Catnip (Nepeta cataria)

Embarrassing as it is, I tried this last night due to the fact I'm a social recluse and have no weed contacts... I had no skins so emptied out a cigarette with a skewer and packed it fairly tight with catnip buds (I thought these would be the strongest part) using a random metal rod to pack it tight. The buds were pretty dry, I'd just harvested most of the seeds the day before then chopped them off the plant. When I was packing the buds into the empty cigarette I found occasional patches of oil on the paper. Maybe this was from the catnip, or maybe something else.

Erowid doesn't say anything about human consumption: http://www.erowid.org/herbs/catnip/ Some sites say it has a mild effect. I've found sites saying it can be brewed up as tea. Other sites say it's used for insomnia to help you get to sleep.

It had no definite effect on me, I managed to get to sleep pretty quick afterwards but that's at least partly to do with caffeine withdrawal.

Next time, if there is a next time I'll brew up a tea with it instead as I've read is preferable and might be stronger. Otherwise it would probably be a case of smoking two or three cigarettes-worth to be affected.

Tuesday, April 12, 2011

Calocybe gambosa - St George's mushroom

names; Calocybe gambosum, St George's Mushroom, [1]

IDENTIFICATION:

A distinctive spring species whose name comes from its appearance around St George's Day, 23rd April [1] Variable dingy-white mushroom [3]

SMELL: Flesh smells strongly of new meal [1] strong mealy smell [3]

TASTE: mild taste [2] strong mealy taste [3]

FLESH: White; very mealy smell [2]

CAP (pileus) colour: (not a good identification feature on it's own)

White with buffish tones [1], at first cream-white, can be ochreous when old; minutely 'pruinose' (Having a white, powdery covering or bloom, as a grapes skin does) [2] dingy white, discolouring brownish or yellow with age[3]

CAP form: (not a good identification feature on it's own)

Cap width averages 10cm in diameter [1] Upto 10cm in diameter [2] to 12cm across, rounded or convex, becoming flatter , irregular and undulating, surface finely suede-like at first but becoming smooth and sometimes cracking[3]

GILLS (lamellae): (not a good identification feature on it's own)

adnate and crowded white [1] white, crowded, sinuate [2] adnexed with decurrant tooth; narrow and very crowded; white or cream [3]

SPORES: (not a good identification feature on it's own?)

White [2]

STIPE: (not a good identification feature on it's own)

stout and white [1] Cream-white; evenly thick and with fibrous scales. [2]

SIMILAR SPECIES:

superficially similar to cultivated mushroom [1]

danger of confusing with inedible or weakly poisonous hebolomas and with very poisonous inocybe erubescens[2]

Inocybe erubescens has brown spore print (tobacco brown [2]) instead of white spore print. The smell is sweet instead of mealy, the taste is 'unpleasant' and like all other brown gilled fungi it shouldn't be eaten [2]. The gills start out white with a faint pink tinge which is probably the easiest point to misidentify them. Inocybe erubescens flesh is reddening [2]

Lepista nuda, lepista saeva,

HABITAT: (not a good identification feature on it's own)

grassy places such as meadows and downland. [1] on meadows, at forest fringes and in light, deciduous woods. [2]

'ARRANGEMENT': Mostly in fairy rings [2]

DISTRIBUTION: (not a good identification feature on its own)

widespread and sometimes locally common in Europe including Britain. [1] Not rare [1]

TIME OF YEAR: Around April to June [1] May to June [2] spring and early summer, reputed to start fruiting on St Georges day 23rd April [3]

EATING:

Edible and good [1]

not for drying [2]


RECIPES:


References

[1]Paul Sterry - A Photographic Guide to Mushrooms of Britain and Europe (Copyright 1995: New Holland (Publishers) Ltd

[2] Edmund Garnweidner - Mushrooms and toadstools of Britain and Europe

[3] Paul Sterry and Barry Hughes - Collins Complete Guide to Britains Mushrooms and Toadstools (Copyright 2009 Paul Sterry and Barry Hughes)

Edible and Poisonous Fungi - The Ministry of Agriculture and Fisheries


Friday, November 5, 2010

Field Blewit, Lepista saeva



AKA: Clitocybe saeva (saeva means fierce, outrageous, angry or strong), Lepista personata (personata means disguised, pretended or false)

IDENTIFICATION:

The Field Blewit is a very variable mushroom in colour particularly.

SMELL: (a good identification feature since very distictive [1] but you will have to get used to the smell first by identifying the mushroom by other means)

Strong and pleasant, perfumed smell [1].

CAP (pileus) colour: (not a good identification feature on it's own)

Beige but drying paler (Collins Complete Guide shows the cap as almost brown as does wikipedia). Peter Jordan says 'Shiny buff which turns brown later'.

CAP form: (not a good identification feature on it's own)

Thick and fleshy, thick and chunky, flesh white and firm, flesh white or flesh coloured. The cap starts out convex, later flatter and can eventually become slightly depressed. 5-12cm diameter. Often rather irregular when growing in clumps [1].

GILLS (lamellae): (not a good identification feature on it's own)

'Whitish and crowded', 'grey-pink gills are sinuate and crowded', 'white to grey-pink', 'light beige'. 'Adnate [1]'. Wikipedia says they are free or emarginate and are cream to light brown with a pinkish tint.

SPORES: (not a good identification feature on it's own but coupled with cap, stipe and gill colour and form it is a good identification feature as far as either L. nuda or L. saeva. Atleast this is what I have gathered from the descriptions I have read ie I don't know this for CERTAIN)

Pale pink

STIPE: (not a good identification feature on it's own)

Streaked bright violet especially near base which is often swollen. No ring. 4-10cm in height, 15-25mm in width (Wikipedia says 25-30mm). Stout cylindrical with slightly swollen base. Whitish ground covered in course violet or blue fibrils.

SIMILAR SPECIES:
Cortinarius camphoratus - ? I think this has a rusty brown spore print ... I also think it is DEADLY.
Cortinarius pupurascens - Cobweb veil, sticky cap, flesh purple and smells fruity, rusty brown spores, POISONOUS/SUSPECT
Cortinarius pseudosalor - Sticky cap, rusty brown spores, POISONOUS/SUSPECT
Clitocybe nebularis (Clouded Agaric) - has grey cap and decurrent gills, also an edible species
Calocybe gambosa (St George's mushroom) - Grows at different time of year (April and onwards during spring I think), lacks violet stipe.

HABITAT: (not a good identification feature on it's own)

Grassland and at the edges of deciduous woodland, on gardens and at roadsides. Often in rings. In pastures in large rings.

EATING:

MUST be cooked before eating and can still disagree with some people. It contains trehalose (I can't remember whether this is the potentially disagreeable substance in it)

RECIPES:

In stews: Chop and add to stews to show off its great flavour, which also enhances game. toasted nuts and strongs cheese.

As tripe: Aromatic taste and jellyish texture are reminiscent of tripe. Remove stipes and chop up stipes finely with equal amount of onions and pack round the cap in a pan with chopped sage and bacon fat. Just cover with milk and simmer for 30 mins. Thicken with flour and butter. Simmer for 15 mins then season. Serve mixture inside a ring of mashed potatoes, with toast and apple sauce.

Omlette filling: Fry them up with onions and copped potato, use as an omlette filling.

I haven't definitely found these yet. I know I've found Lepista nuda (wood blewit) and they were good in the risotto a friend made (the risotto was good, couldn't specifically taste the blewits although I think they had turned even more purple!).

A short guide on L. nuda cultivation (L. saeva may be similar):

http://www.mycelia.be/myc8550.htm

References

[1]Paul Sterry - A Photographic Guide to Mushrooms of Britain and Europe (Copyright 1995: New Holland (Publishers) Ltd

[2] Paul Sterry and - Collins Complete Guide to Britains Mushrooms and Toadstools




Edible and Poisonous Fungi - The Ministry of Agriculture and Fisheries: